Tie and dye are among India’s foremost ancient and traditional decorating cloth. Though it’s widely employed worldwide and is well-known everywhere, it comes from very specific, regional origins. The term ‘tie and dye’ were invented within the mid-1960s.
Many cultures worldwide have practised and perfected this art over the centuries, but it’s been around since pre-historic times in India. The biggest center for producing tie and dye fabrics in India is Rajasthan, and ‘Bandhej’ or ‘Bandhani’ is the term given to the present technique.
Today, almost every clothing category involves using this technique like western, contemporary garments and ethnic outfits like kurtas, saris and lehenga cholis. Tie-dye is among the foremost popular modern clothing prints decorated with traditional Bandhej designs.
TIE-DYE PATTERN
This ancient print isn’t exclusively popular in India. In the U.S., Tie-dye tunic tops are garments that have been worn since the seventies, a decade of western fashion crammed with an influx of ethnic influences in accessories and apparel. It directly caused a hype in India’s traditional tie and dye techniques; and provided an enormous economic boost to the rural artisans of Rajasthan who practised this craft. Thus, nowadays, one can find a plethora of tie-dye tunics within the market, from the funky, hippy varieties to the regular Rajasthani options.
The basic technique is consistent wherever used, but the designs produced will differ depending on the region. The material is first folded-tied-bunched together-crushed-tied with a thread-dipped into a dye.
Those portions are often left white or further dyed into various hues, using an equivalent technique. As a result, various brilliant designs are often created on the textile. The masters of the art of Bandhani from Rajasthan are immensely skilled and use this system to make the only minute, subtle variations in designs and colours. They can produce various motifs and styles spread all over the canvas by folding and tying the material repeatedly in several ways.
LEHERIYA AND BANDHEJ
The Indian version of the tunic, the kurta, is usually embellished using this procedure. The shorter varieties, called tie-dye kurtis, are typically worn for casual wear by women majoritively. These kurtas come in vibrant-hued designs. The most popular and adorned ones are the Bandhani and Lehariya designs.
Bandhani accompanies the standard dot-patterned designs. Tiny cloth dots are left white and uncolored, while the remainder of the material is dyed into warm, vibrant colors like red, yellow and orange. Multiple background colors are often utilized in sharp contrast or a gradual transition from one end to a different one. The latter effect is produced using complex techniques, which will only be done by hand.
Lehariya, on the other hand, is the pattern of long, colorful and wavy lines with an exquisite, wavering aesthetic. However, they are more ornate and incorporate metallic dyes and gold thread embroidery and patterning to make them more elegant.
HOW TO STYLE?
Tie-dye tunics are an important part of the summery, bohemian look, and intrinsically, they never really leave the trend. However, they’re far more versatile than people believe and may be worn with several ensembles. For instance, a colourful, Bandhej tie-dye kurta is often teamed up with salwar, trousers, palazzo pants, oxidized silver jewellery and embroidered jutties for an undeniable ethnic look.
Such an ensemble would be perfect for any time and any event. A low-key festival celebration to going on a date or tea-party gatherings. A fabulous, brightly pattered tie-dye outfit with random geometric designs are often paired with palazzo pants or culottes to make the chic bohemian appeal.