REVIVING CHANDERI TALES WITH THE LOOM

Grandeur Chanderi, renowned for its lustrous transparency and sheer texture, is one of the oldest weaving techniques that fabricate three types of fabric- Pure Silk, Chanderi Silk Cotton, and Chanderi Cotton. The peculiarity lies in its dazzling motleys embellished on the Chanderi fabric. Predominantly, the motleys were inspired by fruits, floral, coins, and peacocks. But now, you can see them in abstract geometric forms. These are essentially handwoven on the fabric with the help of hand-loom and needles. Numerous needles are used to create different motifs.

And most importantly, the timeless beauty of any motif lies in the thread colour, such as Silver, Gold, and Copper. One of the major aspects that make Chanderi the cynosure to our sight is the vibrancy of the fabric. Glorious pastel hues add a taste of liveliness, minimalism, and freshness to the entire outfit, making it an astounding choice for summer.

ORIGIN AND HISTORY

Without a second doubt, Chanderi silk is a renowned brand in the Indian fashion industry. The Mahabharata and the 1200 B.C Rig Veda have also provided fascinating references regarding the Chanderi Silk saree.

In the early 19th century, because of the less availability of hand-spun cotton, weavers swapped to mill-made cotton from hand-spun cotton. The Scindia royal family patronized Chanderi sarees, and it is when they saw the advent of the golden thread motley first bedecked on the cotton muslin sari. These motifs made these sarees so popular, and it was the Mughal Era that intensified the love for this fabric. Further, Japanese silk in the 1930s was found by the Madhya Pradesh weavers who had high extended margins. This event gave birth to the lustrous Chanderi Silk. They swiftly replaced cotton sarees and became the preferable choice. 

Chanderi fabric has derived its name from Chanderi town itself, located in Madhya Pradesh. The woven Chanderi tales can be traced back to the 7th Century B.C., where hand-spun cotton was woven with Chanderi for manufacturing turbans for Maratha rulers. It was one of the most adorned fabrics amongst Maharanis and ancient rulers. Undoubtedly, Chanderi was symbolized as an emblem of royalty. It is also believed that it was discovered in the Vedic era by Shishupal, Lord Krishna’s cousin.

SPECIALITY

Known as “woven air” because of its sheer texture and lustrous transparency, Chanderi fabric has distinguished its highlights from glossy texture and lightweightness. The weave texture of this textile is unique from the ones produced in India. The fabric comprises premium-quality extra fine yarn, and it doesn’t undergo the degumming process, which is sorely responsible for its eccentric shine and texture.

Some of the motifs incorporated in Chanderi sarees are churi, phul-Patti, akhrot, Ashrafi or gold coin, Bundi, eent, Meena buti, phul-buta, Suraj buti, ghoongra, kalgi, and Meena buti. What sets Chanderi a class apart and, indeed, the absolute favourite of the elite are the delicate, intricate handwoven motleys on extra wefts. These are so unique from one another, and every design speaks its own story.

Three features of Chanddri fabric that fascinates us are:

Glossy texture: The transparency and lustrous shine will never draw out your attention from drooling over this fabric. Be it Chanderi Silk or Chanderi Cotton, these fabrics will stand out because of their shimmery texture.

Royal Zari Border: Chander sarees are adorned with a gold zari border, and that’s what makes it even more alluring. The motleys for sure adds a refined elegance. Because of the timeless beauty of zari borders, Chanderi is considered a premium-quality textile amongst the royalties.

A Cultural touch: Since weaving has been practised since generation and continues to be, Chanderi fabrics take us much closer to our traditional legacy.

THE FUTURE OF CHANDERI FABRIC

Be it a language or craft, Chanderi fabrics are going to last through the centuries. Craft is ongoing and is highly influenced by the way we live. Change is inevitable, and we must find a way to find a balance that brings past and future together. The future is bright and more important is to wear them rather than just buy them. It will help to create imagery of the future.