When the word “BANDHANI” is mentioned, our minds immediately conjure up images of Rajasthan’s vibrant colors, folk dancers twirling about in their vibrant ghagras, and majestic turbans. It is symbolic of the desert state’s heritage. It appears that bandhani is more than just a work of art or a cloth; rather, it is a full-fledged emotion that embodies the most vibrant tones of our diverse culture. Bandhej is not only one of the finest gems in the crown of Rajasthani handicrafts; it is also well-liked in Gujarat and some regions of Uttar Pradesh.
Understanding the Art
Bandhani fundamentally refers to the ancient Indian skill of “tie and dye” (resist-dyeing technique using impermeable threads for tying), which is used to create lovely, delicate patterns on fabrics.
Bandhani Narrative
The tie-and-dye technique known as Bandhej (Bandhani), which was invented about 5000 years ago, is arguably the oldest one yet. According to what evidence there is, the first Bandhani saree was worn at a royal wedding during the period of Bana Bhatt’s Harshacharita. In fact, Bandhej remains have been discovered in the Ajanta caves as well. The Gujarati Khatri community invented the bandhani handicraft in India. Jaipur, Sikar, Bhilwara, Udaipur, Bikaner, Ajmer, and Jamnagar in Gujarat are well-known Rajasthani towns that are noted for producing top-notch Bandhej odhnis, sarees, and turbans. It is a traditional art form that has not only endured but also developed over the years.
The Approach to Beautiful Patterns
The cloth is first tied with impermeable thread in a variety of patterns and styles, and then it is dyed with lovely solid colors. These knotted fabrics are dyed by professionals; however, the tied portion doesn’t take the color and stays white or the same color as the fabric. It is then let to dry in the open air. The weather has an impact on how long it takes for the fabric to dye. The drying process for the cloth can take up to two days during the rainy season, but it only takes 4-5 hours during the summer. In addition to the weather, the cloth is crucial in the dying process.
Traditionally, only cotton and muslin were used to make Bandhani sarees, but as circumstances changed and the demand for creativity increased, manufacturers began printing Bandhani designs on georgette, silk, cotton-silk, viscose, and other types of cotton as well. Since every fabric has a distinct nature, the outcome of this art differs depending on the type of cloth utilized.
Shades of Bandhani
It uses deep, black tones but typically starts with brighter tones. Yellow is the first color, to begin with, and then reds, maroons, ochre, orange, indigo blues, turquoise blues, and deep greens are used for additional dyeing and re-dying. These days, the Bandhani palette also includes additional hues, including purple, mustard yellow, beige, pink, and even black.
Ethereal Bandhani Patterns
Four Bandhani dots are referred to as Chaubundi, seven dots as Sat Bundi, and one Bandhani dot as Ek Dali or Bundi. Boond are little, tear-drop-shaped dots with darker centers; Kodi are larger, tear-drop-shaped dots. Trikunti, a cluster pattern that humans can see, is also known as Chaubasi, a group of four, and Satbandi, a group of seven. Repeating Bandhani dots and patterns can result in a variety of latest intricate designs. They include figurines of people as well as trees, flowers, and leaves.
Exquisite Bandhani Sarees
The saree continues to be the most popular garment made from bandhani fabric, despite the cloth also being used to make bags, turbans, chaniya cholis, suits, and other items. When daughters are married, moms are supposed to give them bandhani sarees as a sign of good luck. In fact, the bride’s mother frequently dons the traditional Bandhej saree herself during the wedding ceremony.
Bandhani’s appeal has endured due to its vivid appearance and luxurious feel. It occasionally appears on the runways of designers and is flaunted by numerous celebrities.
Bandhej is a delicate cloth that requires careful storage and upkeep. The best way to care for it is to dry clean it, and it needs to be stored carefully to prevent losing its color or tensile strength.
