One of the most priceless and well-known textile traditions in India is embroidery. Artisanal know-how used to decorate fabric with needles, various threads, and other materials is a varied yet distinctive example of the nation’s rich textile heritage. Every region has its own embroidery patterns and color palette.
Exploring these methods is a wonderful way to learn about India’s cultural heritage.
These Indian traditional embroidery styles are some of our favorites.
Chic Chikankari
The North Indian city of Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, is the origin of this fashion. Chikankari is best known for its white-on-white details and is thought to have been invented by empress Nur Jehan. On cotton, silk, and organza, hand embroidery using floral motifs is incredibly delicate and artistically done. The fabric used for this embroidery must be delicate and soft. The skilled work of several artisans can be seen in each piece of chikan hand embroidery.
Following their work on specific stitches, specialized embroiderers pass the piece to the following specialized artisan for the following step. This labor-intensive method uses up to 35 different stitches, including flat, raised, and embossed stitches as well as “jaalis,” which are open, trellis-like stitches that involve making tiny holes in the fabric.
Impressive Kantha
The Eastern Indian states of Bengal and Odisha are known for their distinctive Kantha embroidery techniques. Bedspreads and mats made of old, tattered fabrics like sarees or dhotis (men’s skirts made by draping fabric around the waist) are decorated with Kantha art, which is from Bangladesh. Simple running stitches are used to quilt together the many layers of this plush, vintage-inspired recycled fabric; on occasion, embroidered patterns are also added using darning, satin, and buttonhole stitches.
In the past, the borders of discarded clothing were used to make the embroidery thread for Kantha embroidery. We can recycle and reuse old textiles that would have otherwise been thrown away by using this type of embroidery. Utilizing recycled fabric, unique pieces are produced using kantha embroidery, which features motifs such as birds, animals, flowers, and commonplace activities from Indian villages.
Luxurious Zardozi
The ancient Persian art of zardozi involves stitching gold and silver threads onto fabric. The words “zar” (gold) and “dozi” (work) are combined to form the name. Zardozi was used during the Mughal era to decorate expensive clothing with wrapped threads made of gold or silver.
Textiles made specifically for royalty were handcrafted with pearls, precious stones, and real gold and silver threads.
This intricate and opulent embroidery was complemented by velvets and luxurious silks. Soft cotton or muslin cloth is used to wrap and store zardozi embroidered clothing to preserve the shine and safeguard the garment’s components.
Striking Mirror Work
A perfect fusion of thread craft and mirror work can be found in Kutch, Gujarat, in the northwest of India. Because Kutch embroidery makes use of tiny mirrors and vibrant threads, it differs from other embroidery types. Home furnishings, accessories, and tote bags all feature this style of embroidery. Running stitches, double buttonholes, satin, and straight stitches are among the stitches used.
Some Gujarati communities consider mirror work to be lucky because it serves as a deterrent to the evil eye by reflecting misfortune and evil spirits away from the wearer. The use of mica, a mineral with a shiny surface, may have contributed to the development of the reflective components of mirror work. However, pieces of specially made mirrored glass became widely available starting in the 19th century.
Traditionally, this type of glass is hand blown and then cut with specialized scissors into various shapes.
