Knowing all About the In-Trend Chanderi Fabric

by THE Loom
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Off White Embroidered Chanderi Kurta

The traditional ethnic fabric known as chanderi is distinguished by its lightweight, sheer texture, and beautiful, opulent feel. Silk and golden zari are woven into traditional cotton yarn to create Chanderi fabric, giving it its glittering sheen. The fabric takes its name from the Madhya Pradesh town of Chanderi, where skilled traditional weavers are proficient in creating textured cotton and silk sarees embellished with beautiful zari work.

Three types of this fabric can be distinguished pure silk, Chanderi silk cotton, and Chanderi cotton. 

Young women today favor donning Chanderi sarees. It has become the most subtle of Indian ethnic clothing and is one of the must-have pieces for every saree enthusiast. Chanderi sarees are a perfect option for summer clothing as well as for formal occasions like weddings and pujas.

How it all Started

the loom - Yellow Hand Embroidered Chanderi Silk Printed Kurta
the loom – Yellow Hand Embroidered Chanderi Silk Printed Kurta

The Chanderi fabric was woven using handspun cotton for the warps and wefts, and Chanderi town has long been regarded as one of India’s best handloom clusters. However, the fabric started to change in the 1890s when weavers in Chanderi town started using mill-made yarns instead of hand-spun ones. But if the epics are to be believed, Lord Krishna’s cousin Shishupal is credited with creating Chanderi cloth, which dates back to the Vedic Period.

The royal family of Scindia began wearing Chanderi sarees in 1910, and it was during this time that the golden thread design first appeared on cotton muslin sarees. However, during the Mughal era, this fabric’s appeal reached new heights and became the preferred option for Indian queens. Japanese silk was discovered by Chanderi weavers in Madhya Pradesh in the 1930s. The Chanderi silk variant was created when they started using it to replace the warps of cotton sarees.

What distinguishes chanderi

the loom - Yellow Striped Chanderi Tissue Anarkali Kurta
the loom – Yellow Striped Chanderi Tissue Anarkali Kurta

The two main traits that set Chanderi cloth apart from other handloom fabrics are the creation of distinctive buttis or motifs and the transparent or sheer texture.

The distinct motifs

The buttis, or motifs, on Chanderi cloth are generally hand-woven using needles and a handloom. Different themes are made with different needles. These designs are covered in copper, silver, and gold by the weavers. Swans, gold coins, fruits, and celestial bodies are among the natural themes used in chanderi weaving.

The majority of Chanderi sarees’ color palette is made up of gentle pastel shades, but with the passage of time, bright pairings such as crimson and black, turquoise and navy blue, and fuchsia and white have also become popular.

Sheer Details

the loom - White Aari Zardozi Embroidered Chanderi Saree
the loom – White Aari Zardozi Embroidered Chanderi Saree

One distinctive quality of Chanderi fabric that sets it apart from other textiles made all over India is its transparency or sheer texture. This fabric’s transparency is a result of the use of single-flature yarn. When the glue from a raw yarn is not separated from it, the non-degumming gives the completed fabric a shine and transparency, creating a flature yarn.

Modern chanderi

the loom - Lavender Hand Embroidered Chanderi Suit
the loom – Lavender Hand Embroidered Chanderi Suit

Chanderi cloth has held a unique place in the Indian handloom industry since ancient times. Historically, nine-yard sarees were woven using this fabric. However, Chanderi cloth is now widely used by fashion designers to make Indo-Western skirts, tunics, and tops by fusing traditional and modern weaving techniques.

Fashion designers and Chanderi weavers have been collaborating closely in recent years to create chic staples for your wardrobe. Many fashion industry designers have been captivated by the fabric’s sheer texture, fineness, and glossiness. 

Treasuring your chanderi masterpieces correctly

the loom - Purple Hand Embroidered Chanderi Suit 
the loom – Purple Hand Embroidered Chanderi Suit 

The Chanderi cloth requires particular attention due to its transparent texture. It should be dry-cleaned to preserve the exquisite Zari work. It must stay out of the sun and should be dried in the shade.

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