The glittering sophistication of Gota Patti

Wearing gota patti gives you a sense of romancing with its glorious past. The modern regalia is an ode to its ancient heritage when it was only associated with royalty and deities. The embroidery, also known as Gota-Kinari or Lappe ka Kaam originated in Rajasthan, India. The cities of Jaipur, Bikaner, Ajmer, Udaipur, and Kota are the epicenter of this craft practice, which is hand-done by artisans involving the technique of applique. Tiny pieces of ribbon are cut into shapes that are sewed onto the fabric surface in motifs of flowers, leaves, trees, parrots and more.

Gota work includes a ribbon which is either silver or gold and is cut into several shapes and then stitched onto the fabric- a process which is called ‘takaayi’. The width of the ribbon can vary depending on the intricacy of the design. Tie-dyed georgettes, pastel chiffons, tussar silks, crepes, and khaadi-cottons are commonly used as base materials. Gota was traditionally associated with royal members of the court, temple idols, priest, shrines and prayer offerings.

Considered to be a shagan and a symbol of good will , gota was also used as a kinari , an edging or a cut and manipulated into motifs called gota-tukdi,that are sewn into garments and turbans. A very unique part of the history of this craft was the use of blue-green metallic colored shells of a beetle for the ornamentation exclusively done for the royalty. The emergence of mass production of lurex gota (a polyester variety of gota) on electrically powered swivel looms led to gota being used by all the communities Rajasthan.

Modern-day gota derivatives range from bridal lehengas, decor items to stationary. The gentle metallic finish added by this technique contrasts beautifully with the Indian colors- devising a heritage artifact. To keep the tradition alive, a slew of designers have started working with authentic artisans to make sure the technique and its practice is passed on to coming generations while also keeping up its relevance for its patrons.

 

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