Rajasthan features a rich textile heritage and is understood for its Phad and Pichwais paintings, Sanganeri and Bagru prints, also known as resist-dyed (Bandhani and Leheriya) textiles. Aside from these textile traditions, the weaves of Kota Rajasthan are famous for the extreme fine cotton weaving, popularly referred to as Kota Doria. Also referred to by the name Masuria, it is one of the foremost crucial sources of income for the people employed in this region. Mangrol and Kaithun are most famous for the Masuria or Kota sarees.
ORIGIN
You can find plenty of fables narrated by the weavers and how the process of the shrouded mystery of this checkered fabric and have a deep understanding of its origin. The saying goes that the Doria sarees first originated and were woven in Mysore. The weavers were asked to re-locate to Kota under the then-Kota Prince, Rao Kishore Singh.
As per another tale, a Khatiya weaver from Kota travelled to Chandeshwari to review the art of most delicate weaving. The Kota durbar rewarded him for his fine craftsmanship by weaving a check pattern made from alternate weaves of cotton and silk yarns when he returned.
THE STORY BEHING MASURIA
There are plenty of fascinating interpretations and anecdotes of how Kota Doria came to be referred to as Masuria. Masuria is a Sanskrit word for mesh. The name originated from the fabric’s pattern, almost like a mesh. The cloth produced is Masuria since silk was obtained from Mysore.
THE ULTIMATE GRACE OF KOTA DORIA
Kota Doria is a one-of-a-kind handwoven fabric with a particular square-checkered pattern. The exquisite quality of the yarn, its softness and its agility, which are handwoven by polishing the warp yarn with a specific starch, are the distinguishing features of Kota Doria. Different counts of cotton yarns or a fruitful mix of silk and cotton yarns are differentially woven to make the checkered pattern.
Weaving with silk is different and unique weaving as cotton and silk threads are combined in both the warp and weft directions. This leads to the event of squares mentioned as khat. This weaving procedure isn’t done by handloom artisans and textile in India. Therefore, the khats are mentioned by many names like chokhdi, khan, checks, and charkhana in various parts of the country.
MOTIFS
- The popular motifs used are:
- Chokdi- checks
- Keri- mango
- Ginni- coin
- Phool Patti- flowers with petals and leaves
- Shakarpara- sweet
- Paan- leaf
- Geometrical motifs.
COLORS
Since this transparent, lightweight fabric is perfect for summer, light pastel hues like lemon yellow, mint green, light pink, powder blue, red, and orange are majorly used by weavers.
However, darker colours like navy blue, dark green, fuchsia pink, and mustard yellow are famous for the motifs.
WEAVING PROCESS
Throw-shuttle pit looms were employed back in the past. Frame looms and jacquard looms, on the contrary, became more prevalent within the production of sarees with woven borders and motifs in past years. Once the weavers are done with the sizing, the yarns are taken further to warp and wound all around the warp beam. The weavers used unbleached yarm to create the fabric. The wrapping-dyeing-sizing-winding-weaving are done by weavers with the assistance of their neighbours and family members.
After warping, the cotton yarns remain brittle, and they are made solid and smooth by sizing them. A liquid made from arrowroot, flour, rice and wild onions is applied to size it.
And there can be a no better place other than The Loom who promotes and preserves the authentic heritage crafts of your sweet nation. Currently, this airy and versatile fabric is an integral part of a majoritive of women’s clothing and ofcourse the wedding trousseau.
